The little country that could...

I began writing about Catalonia  in June 2013 when I first arrived and have met many Catalans since then, people from both sides of the political spectrum and what I am sensing now, 10 months later, is an increasing sense of frustration, anger and possibly worse.

 

One thing I have learned from my many travels is never to get involved in the politics or political debate of the country that happens to be my host at that time. Australian politics never interested me, it is democracy, it works, and the political debate is rough and ready and similar to the politics of my home country. The USA was more complex and there always seemed to be more division and anger between opposing sides. If I said the wrong thing, or liked the wrong president then I could be ostracized as happened at a cocktail party in Boston in 2000 when I commented on how good Clinton had been and how GW Bush made me shudder. I am sure historians will back me up one day. In Vietnam, political debate or criticism of the leaders could have led to arrest and deportation so whilst I despise communism in the form found in Vietnam (it betrays its people and ensures a small elite remain very rich) I never commented on it when I was there. I know members of the Vietnamese communist party and their membership is their key to career success so it was important to not comment (something a British man finds hard to do).

So now I am in Barcelona, capital of the possible future country of Cataluña and everyone wants me to comment on their homeland and its struggle (I use the word ‘struggle’ because it is often used, I have yet to perceive any real struggle yet, the struggles for most people are in the homes of the poor and unemployed, not the middle class voters who will decide Catalonia’s future) for independence. They ask me over and over about Scottish independence and that situation. I have no strong opinion on it either. It doesn't impact on me and people are not dying in some epic struggle against an oppressive leader or empire. I ask myself, "what struggle". There is the battle between the capital and the 2nd city, a battle played out all over the world, New York vs. LA. Sydney vs. Melbourne, Toronto vs. Montreal, Rio de Janeiro vs. Sao Paulo etc. etc. It is a political battle for dominance over finances first, culture 2nd.

Firstly, I don't have a really strong opinion on Catalan independence, it isn't my fight. This is no Kosovo vs. Serbia situation. Spain is a democracy, a little flawed at times but a democracy, people can vote and change things but it sometimes feels that when the votes don't result in the outcome people want, they take to the streets and complain of oppression etc. I lived in Madrid for 8 months and the only bad words I heard about the Catalan independence issue came from Catalans criticizing Madrid and the central government. It is hard to take sides in a battle that seems to rise and fall with the economy and has become about money. It is often joked that London could break away from England/the UK because it contributes more than it receives and is so different from the rest of the UK, it is, and it isn't. London is the capital of England, the UK and its unique qualities contribute to the UK and the relationship is more symbiotic than people realize. Catalonia can thrive within Spain, the relationship needs fixing rather than ending. The phrase "little fish in a big pond" comes to mind. If Barcelona and Madrid can negotiate and avoid a break up of Spain then both can thrive, Barcelona is already richer than most of Spain and it feels rich, stylish and comfortable and different, but I am not yet convinced if the difference is significant enough for the republic of Cataluña to be born, the ideas are there, the passions are high but a little more thought and patience is needed. If you want to see struggle and a fight for nationhood go look at Palestine, Syria, or Darfur. Compare and take a step back and re-think your plans.

This story will continue long after I have left Barcelona and I wish all the people of Catalonia the best of luck. And remind them that politicians say A and do B.